When Jill and Leon Uris went to Ireland

Fifty years ago this month the American book publisher Doubleday released Ireland: A Terrible Beauty, by Jill and Leon Uris. The couple had traveled on both sides of the partitioned island from May 1972 (four months after Bloody Sunday) to January 1973.

Original dusk jacket.

Leon, an established author, conducted research for a new novel, Trinity, which became a best seller when it was released in 1976. Jill, his third wife, 23 years younger, photographed nearly 400 images of thatched cottages, mist-shrouded countryside, and gritty scenes of urban violence; in color, and in black and white.

Their Preface says:

“We were lured there by an intriguing people, their sometimes magnificent, sometimes harsh land, and, mostly, their poignant history. Our aim was to find the keys to that story which would clarify so much of the mystery and puzzlement of recent events and simultaneously photograph everyone and everything wherever the search took us. …

“Ireland is too vast and complex in its story for two people to cover it comprehensively in less than a decade. We made no pretense at attempting to.

“What we do have here is a social, historical, and political commentary on what we consider to be the guts of the matter of a unique people and their lovely but sorrowed island. This is our point of view on the “troubles” that have plagued Ireland for the fatter part of a millennium.”[1]Leon Uris and Jill Uris, Ireland: A Terrible Beauty. The Story  of Ireland Today (With 388 Photographs, Including 108 in Full Color). [Garden City, New York: Doubleday & Company, Inc., 1975]. … Continue reading

The couple covered 10,000 miles, mostly by auto, “on some decent and some indecent roads.” Their journey and their book recalled American photographer and antiquarian Wallace Nutting, who estimated he and his wife covered 700 miles in all 32 counties 50 years earlier, during the summer of 1925. Nutting’s book, Ireland Beautiful, was published in time for that year’s Christmas gift-giving. It featured 304 half-tone engravings of Irish landscapes—only six images show people—and his text in support of the title.

From his studio near Boston, Nutting wrote:

“This volume pretends to no place as a guide book, nor is its text intended to cover with precision or fullness any part of Ireland. It is merely a record of impression of beauty or quaintness, observed in a land which for romance and pathos, strange history and legend, for witching grace and mystery, is probably unsurpassed.”[2]Wallace Nutting, Ireland Beautiful. [Norwood, Mass.: The Plimpton Press, 1925]. 302 pp. Quoted from Foreword.

Though he began his career as a Congregationalist minister, Nutting insisted his book had “nothing whatever to do with political and religious matters.” He noted the work of the Boundary Commission, which later in 1925 fixed the partition line in place, and made sweeping, uncontroversial generalizations: “The people of Ulster were as insistent on remaining in the empire as South Ireland was on withdrawing from the empire.”[3]Ibid., 286.

For more on Nutting, see my August 2025 piece for History Ireland, “Ireland Beautiful–How A 1925 American Photobook Boosted Irish Tourism.”

More opinionated

Leon Uris was more opinionated in his analysis of an Ireland then descending deeper into sectarian strife, rather than the island emerging from the war of independence and civil war at Nutting’s visit. During the Uris’s nine-month stay, more than 400 people were killed and thousands of others were injured in shootings and bombings. More than 500 people were charged with terrorist offences. “Their visit coincided with one of the most violent years of the Troubles,” wrote biographer Ira B. Nadel.[4]Ira B. Nadel, Leon Uris: Life of a Best Seller. [Austin: University of Texas Press, 2010], See Chapter 9, “Ireland,” 209-232.

Uris leveraged his identity as an American Jew, not an Irish-American of Catholic or Protestant faith, as well as his status as a celebrity author. He took particular aim at “the most diabolic by-product of three hundred and fifty years of the plantation of Ulster, a cancerous growth known as Paisleyism.” Grimly, he concluded: “The nightmare of Ulster has come about with Christian fighting Christian in one of the most advanced of Western societies. Continuation of this travesty with God can lead to the eclipse of civilization in that part of the world.”[5]Uris, Terrible Beauty, 128, 195.

The Troubles got much worse, of course, but not quite that bad.

By coincidence, Terrible Beauty’s November 1975 release was three months after the death of Éamon de Valera, the most consequential leader of twentieth century Ireland. The book says he “had the full measure of that detached, ruthless arrogance, political guile, persuasiveness, and total self-assurance that stamp greatness on a national leader. He was the rarest breed, the head of a small country that has achieved stature among the political giants of this century.”[6]Ibid., 162.

Photographing Ireland

Dev’s death ends the book’s 8-page chronology, which begins at 10,000 BC when the island emerged from the receding Ice Age. Naturally, the book included a map and, like the island itself, was divided into two sections: The Republic and Ulster.

“Photographing in the Republic was almost always a joy. Ulster was another story,” Jill Uris wrote. She described the difficulties of working as a woman and an outsider in the sectarian maelstrom of the North. Her “Photographing Ireland” in the Appendix also contains notes about the pre-digital camera equipment she used during the assignment.[7]Ibid., 209-212

Aside from the images of sectarian violence in the North, most of Jill’s photographs show a mid-twentieth century Ireland without much hint of the rapid modernization that emerged in the coming decades, and certainly since 2000. In this regard her images of the country are similar to those of American photographer Dorothea Lange, who arrived in County Clare in September 1954 on an assignment for Life magazine. See my September 2024 post, “Remembering Dorothea Lange’s ‘Irish Country People’“.

I’ll return to my exploration of the Uris’s visit and their work in future posts.

References

References
↑1 Leon Uris and Jill Uris, Ireland: A Terrible Beauty. The Story  of Ireland Today (With 388 Photographs, Including 108 in Full Color). [Garden City, New York: Doubleday & Company, Inc., 1975]. 288 pp.
↑2 Wallace Nutting, Ireland Beautiful. [Norwood, Mass.: The Plimpton Press, 1925]. 302 pp. Quoted from Foreword.
↑3 Ibid., 286.
↑4 Ira B. Nadel, Leon Uris: Life of a Best Seller. [Austin: University of Texas Press, 2010], See Chapter 9, “Ireland,” 209-232.
↑5 Uris, Terrible Beauty, 128, 195.
↑6 Ibid., 162.
↑7 Ibid., 209-212

On Pope Leo, King Charles, and Soldier F

As voters in the Republic of Ireland selected a new president, two news stories with deep connections to Northern Ireland also made headlines this month:

  • Britain’s King Charles III prayed with Pope Leo XIV at the Vatican’s Sistine Chapel, the first joint worship of the English monarch and the Catholic pontiff since King Henry VIII broke away from Rome in 1534.
  • “Soldier F,” a former member of the British Parachute Regiment, was found not guilty of murder and attempted murder for Bloody Sunday, 1972, in Derry (Londonderry), Northern Ireland.

As king, Charles is also supreme governor of the Church of England. He has met previous popes, but never prayed with them in public. “This would have been impossible just a generation ago,” Anglican Rev. James Hawkey, canon theologian of Westminster Abbey, told Reuters. “It represents how far our churches have come over the last 60 years of dialogue.”

Pope Leo and King Charles in the Sistine Chapel. Photo www.royal.uk.

In Northern Ireland, however, some Orangemen turned red with rage. “A sad day for Protestantism,” the fraternal group said. Rev. Kyle Paisley, son of the late unionist leader Ian Paisley, and other Protestant clergy condemned the visit. Paisley even suggested that Charles should abdicate the throne.

In 1988 Paisley’s father infamously interrupted Pope John Paul II during the pontiff’s address to the European Parliament. “I denounce you, antichrist. I refuse you as Christ’s enemy and antichrist with all your false doctrine,” shouted Paisley, firebrand founder of the Free Presbyterian Church. It was hardly his only anti-Catholic stunt.

Of course, religious prejudice can cut both ways. Defeated Irish presidential candidate Heather Humphreys, an Ulster Presbyterian whose husbanded once belonged to the Orange Order, told the Irish Times that she and her family “were subjected to some absolutely awful sectarian abuse” during the campaign.

Most people in Northern Ireland seem to have accepted the rapprochement between Leo and Charles with a shrug. Not that we are likely to see Belfast “Kick the Pope” bands suddenly replaced by ecumenical choirs. Sectarianism waxes and wanes, but it seldom disappears.

Bloody Sunday verdict

Thirteen people were shot dead and at least 15 others injured Jan. 30, 1972, at a civil rights demonstration in the Bogside area of Derry. Fifty-three years later Judge Patrick Lynch of the Belfast Crown Court said members of the Parachute Regiment “totally lost all sense of military discipline” and shot “unarmed civilians fleeing from them on the streets of a British city,” according to reporting by the BBC.

The 1972 civil rights demonstration in Derry, Northern Ireland, that became Bloody Sunday.

But the evidence against Soldier F, whose anonymity is protected by a court order, fell short of what is required for conviction, Judge Lynch ruled in the non-jury trial.

Reaction to the decision was predictably split along the usual republican and unionist lines. “Deeply disappointing” and “continued denial of justice”, said First Minister Michelle O’Neill of Sinn Féin. Democratic Unionist Party leader Gavin Robinson welcomed the “common sense judgement”, but said the trial had been “a painful and protracted process,” according to BBC.

The US-based Ancient Order of Hibernians, a Catholic fraternal group, issued a statement saying it was “saddened but not surprised” by the acquittal. “As we have for decades, the AOH will support the Bloody Sunday families as they take the next steps in their fight for justice, and we will stand with all victims’ relatives as they continue their fight for legacy truth.”

In 2010, then British Prime Minister David Cameron formally apologized for Bloody Sunday. The judges verdict is unlikely to be the last word on the matter, which has become the life’s work of the victims’ surviving family members and others on one side, with British veterans groups and hardline unionists on the other.

See my 2022 History News Network piece on the 50th anniversary of Bloody Sunday.

Connolly cruises as Irish voters protest

  • Update 5:

Some American press coverage of Connolly’s win:

The winner.                  Daniel Carey photo

“Ireland, in a cautionary rebuke to the governing establishment, has voted overwhelmingly to elect an outspoken leftist to the country’s mostly ceremonial presidency — a landslide victory for an independent lawmaker who has accused NATO of ‘warmongering’ and built her campaign on demands for economic justice at home and fury over the plight of Gaza abroad.” —  Washington Post, via London.

“Independent socialist Catherine Connolly swept to a landslide victory Saturday to become Ireland’s next president, dealing a record-breaking rebuke to the two center-ground parties of government. — Longtime Ireland correspondent Shawn Pogatchnik of Politico.eu, via Dublin.

“Left-wing independent Catherine Connolly, who secured the backing of Ireland’s left-leaning parties including Sinn Féin, has won the country’s presidential election in a landslide victory against her center-right rival.” —  Associated Press, via London

As of 8 a.m. Eastern, Oct. 26, the New York Times had no coverage of the election result. The Times finally reported the election results Nov. 2.

Update 4:

Catherine Connolly is officially the tenth president of Ireland. She secured 63.36 percent of the first preference tally, a total of 914,143 votes, compared to 29.46 percent for Heather Humphreys and 7.18 percent for withdrawn candidate Jim Gavin.

Nearly 214,000 voters submitted spoiled ballots, almost 13 percent. That dwarfs the slightly more than 1 percent  of spoiled ballots in the 2018 and 2011 presidential elections. The 46 percent turnout slightly exceeded the last election.

Connolly will be officially inaugurated on Nov. 11.

Update 3:

Leftwing independent TD Catherine Connolly is cruising to an overwhelming victory as Ireland’s tenth president. Heather Humphreys has conceded.

Connolly has secured roughly 64 percent share of the vote based on incomplete results, according to the Irish Times and other media. Humphreys is bumping along around 30 percent, and withdrawn candidate Jim Gavin about 7 percent.

But the biggest story of the election is that disgruntled voters, unhappy with the choices, have spoiled an unprecedented number of the ballots, currently estimated at 13 percent. (This is not included in the percentage totals above.) … Results are still being tabulated.

Connolly is cruising. These signs near the DART station in Dun Laoghaire.                                    Michael Doorley photo.

Update 2:

Polls have closed in Ireland’s tenth presidential election under the 1937 Constitution. Counting will begin Saturday morning and the winner could be declared quickly if pre-election polling, which strongly favors Connolly, is correct. Here are some key numbers to watch:

  • 1.2 percent; spoiled votes in the last presidential election in 2018. A significantly higher number this year could signal widespread disenchantment with the two candidates.
  • 12.5 percent; first-preference vote threshold for Fianna Fáil to recoup some of its election expenses for nominating Jim Gavin, who dropped out of the race but remained on the ballot. Irish elections are capped at €750,000; campaigns can claim a reimbursement of up to one third that amount.
  • 15-19 points; the margin of Connolly’s lead in three pre-election polls.
  • 44 percent; turnout in the 2018 presidential election, or just under 1.5 million voters. Early totals suggest turnout will be lower, perhaps under 40 percent.
  • 55.81 percent; outgoing President Michael D. Higgins’ first preference share in the six-person 2018 contest.
  • 822,566; Higgins’ first-preference vote total, enough for the 50 percent plus one needed to secure reelection.
  • 3.6 million; eligible voters, about 300,000 more than the November 2024 general election.

Update 1:

Voting is underway in Ireland. … Both candidates have cast their ballots: Catherine Connolly in Galway city, underdog Heather Humphreys in Monaghan. Outgoing President Michael D. Higgins has voted in Dublin. … Polls are open until 10 p.m. Irish time, or 5 p.m. US Eastern time. … The weather is cold and damp, with showers forecast in many parts of the country but periods of sun. … Election officials expect a low turnout.

Original post:

Irish voters on Friday will decide a two-woman contest for president. The candidates are leftwing independent TD Catherine Connolly, backed by Sinn Féin and Labour, and former Fine Gael minister Heather Humphreys, a center-right establishment figure. Connolly is widely expected to win, based on polling and debate performances. But Irish voters have surprised political pundits in the past.

Ghost candidate: Gavin’s campaign signs are still posted in Dublin, and his name remains on the ballot. Daniel Carey photo.

In addition to monitoring Irish media coverage, I’ve reached out to family members in Kerry and Meath, as well as several Irish historian friends in Dublin to help assess the election. Some of their comments are attributed, others are kept anonymous on request.

In general, the Irish electorate is grumpy and dissatisfied with the binary choice. “Unenthused” is the word one of my correspondents used. “Resignation” was another. Historian and former public servant Felix M. Larkin wrote:

“My very personal take on the election is that we have been badly served by the establishment parties. The long-mooted Fine Gael candidate had to pull out because of health issues and, like Kamala Harris, Humphreys was parachuted in at the eleventh hour and was manifestly unprepared for the campaign. Fianna Fáil opted for a ‘celebrity’ candidate who was totally unqualified for the job and whose campaign imploded when past shenanigans as a landlord embarrassingly came to light.”

The “celebrity” candidate was Jim Gavin, the former GAA coach whose campaign was sidelined by the revelation that he failed to refund €3,300 in back rent to a former tenant. The tenant turned out to be a Sunday World journalist. Gavin withdrew from the race on Oct. 6, but his name remains on the ballot.

At least Ireland has been spared the spectacle of having far-right mixed martial arts fighter Conor McGregor in the race. He almost makes Donald Trump look like a choir boy.

Several of my correspondents said they will reluctantly vote for Humphreys, thus the possibility of a surprise outcome (HH instead of CC) mentioned at the top of this post. One of my relations is considering spoiling her ballot in protest.

Larkin said Sinn Féin and Ireland’s “responsible left parties” (Labour and the Social Democrats) seemed to back Connolly based on a strategy “to chase the chimera of a ‘United Left’ coalition for the next General Election. Did they ever think Connolly could win?  I doubt it, but the unimaginable appears to be about to happen.”

On press reports of Ireland’s ‘first’ president, 1938

(My next post will be the eve of the election, Oct. 23, with updates through election day until the winner is announced, probably Oct. 25 or 26. MH)

Irish voters on Oct. 24 will elect the country’s tenth president under the constitution their ancestors adopted in 1937. Irish language scholar Douglas Hyde was nominated as the first president in 1938 by the country’s two main political parties, avoiding a contested election.

“Not a word of English was spoken at the inauguration of the Protestant as the head of the Catholic state,” the Associated Press reported to American newspaper readers. Americans in several markets such as New York/New Jersey, Massachusetts, and Washington, D.C. also were able to listen to a radio broadcast of the Irish language inaugural from Dublin.[1]”Dr. Hyde Inducted As Irish President”, Philadelphia Inquirer, June 28, 1938, and other papers. Radio program listings in multiple papers.

Statue of Douglas Hyde in Co. Roscommon.

Nine of every 10 Irish citizens in 1938 were Catholic, and many aspects of the country’s political and social life were certainly influenced by the Church. But the new constitution that began to transform the 26 counties of southern Ireland from the Irish Free State, created in 1922 as a dominion of the United Kingdom, “did not declare Catholicism the state religion, to the disappointment of my zealous Catholics.” The 1937 constitution also did not declare an Irish republic, though the document defined the state as having 32 counties.[2]Diarmaid Ferriter, The Transformation of Ireland. [New York: Overlook Press, 2005], 369-70.

Some American news analysts framed Hyde’s selection as an olive branch to the six partitioned counties of North Ireland, which was roughly two thirds Protestant at the time.[3]In 1937, 30.5 % Presbyterian; 27% Church of Ireland; 4.7% Methodist. “Breakdown of population in Northern Ireland according to Religion, 1861-1991” at CAIN Archive. Catholics now outnumber … Continue reading But Hyde’s ascendance to the new figure head position of president did not reassure northern hardliners. The Ulster Unionist Party of Sir James Craig solidified its hold on power in the north during an election earlier in 1938. The Anglo-Irish Trade Agreement of that year, which ended a five-year dispute over tariffs and transferred control of several naval ports from Britain to Ireland, further reinforced northern recalcitrance.

Hyde’s religious affiliation was not the only thing that made him an unconventional choice. “Politicians usually want a practical man as the head of the state, but Dr. Hyde is a poet,” observed Milton Bronner of the Newspaper Enterprise Association. “The dominant cry in Europe is for young men as leaders, but the Irish chose Dr. Hyde, who is 78.”[4]”Aged Poet, ‘Enemy of None,’ To Be President of Ireland”, Pittsburgh Press, June 5, 1938, and other papers. For more on Bronner, see my post: “Could Maine potatoes have … Continue reading

Bronner’s analysis and other American press reports about Hyde’s inauguration noted his 1906-07 tour of the United States to raise money and awareness for the Gaelic League. These same stories mention that Eamon de Valera, as taoiseach, or prime minister, continued to hold the real political power in southern Ireland. But I have not found any American coverage that recounted de Valera’s 1919-20 U.S. tour as “president of the Irish republic.”

De Valera in 1937.

No such position or country formally existed at the time. De Valera’s real title was Príomh Aire, the chief minister or president of Dáil Éireann; the separatist parliament established in January 1919 by Sinn Féin candidates who won Irish constituencies in the December 1918 British general election. The title of president of Ireland was bestowed on de Valera by Irish American supporters to more easily convey his leadership position to American audiences.

In 1938, at least one letter to the editor writer in Ireland questioned the new title of Irish president, even if the American press missed the historical irony. The Dublin writer noted not only that de Valera had declared himself president in 1919, but also that Pádraic Pearse made the same claim at the 1916 Easter Rising. “Apparently we are now expected to forget that the Irish republic ever existed, or that the blood of Ireland’s greatest men was shed in its defense, and to regard the history of Ireland as commencing on the date of the enactment of de Valera’s new constitution.”[5]”President of Ireland” in “Our Readers’ Views On Topics Of The Day”, Irish Independent, June 27, 1938.

Afterward:

  • Full republic status came to the 26 counties of southern Ireland in 1949. The 1937 constitution’s claim on a 32-county state was amended in 1998 as part of the Good Friday Agreement.
  • De Valera transitioned from taoiseach to president in 1959. He held the latter position until 1973.
  • The Irish Times has ranked Hyde as second best among the nine presidents of Ireland, with de Valera placed at seventh. See their list.

The two candidates vying for the Irish presidency later this month are Catherine Connolly, who was raised Catholic but describers herself as areligious, and Heather Humphreys, a Presbyterian by religious affiliation who describes her politics as moderate Irish republicanism rather than Protestant unionism. Connolly is a fluent Irish speaker, while Humphrey struggles with the language. As mentioned in the previous post, whoever wins the election will become Ireland’s third woman president.

References

References
↑1 ”Dr. Hyde Inducted As Irish President”, Philadelphia Inquirer, June 28, 1938, and other papers. Radio program listings in multiple papers.
↑2 Diarmaid Ferriter, The Transformation of Ireland. [New York: Overlook Press, 2005], 369-70.
↑3 In 1937, 30.5 % Presbyterian; 27% Church of Ireland; 4.7% Methodist. “Breakdown of population in Northern Ireland according to Religion, 1861-1991” at CAIN Archive. Catholics now outnumber Protestants in Northern Ireland by 45.7% to 43.5%.
↑4 ”Aged Poet, ‘Enemy of None,’ To Be President of Ireland”, Pittsburgh Press, June 5, 1938, and other papers. For more on Bronner, see my post: “Could Maine potatoes have relieved Irish hunger in 1925?“
↑5 ”President of Ireland” in “Our Readers’ Views On Topics Of The Day”, Irish Independent, June 27, 1938.

Gavin’s withdrawal upends Irish presidential race

UPDATE:

It’s legally too late to remove Gavin from the ballot. This means any votes cast for Gavin will still need to be counted and redistributed to the other two candidates under Ireland’s proportional representation with a single transferrable vote system. This could prove pivotal in deciding the winner.

“There’s even a fear in government circles that disillusioned voters angry with the choices on offer could vote for Gavin in protest, ‘electing’ a figure who’s no longer willing to serve as Ireland’s next ceremonial head of state,” reported Shawn Pogatchnik at Politic.eu. “That would produce a potential constitutional crisis.”

ORIGINAL POST:

Ireland will elect its third women head of state on Oct. 24 following the surprise withdrawal of Fianna Fáil candidate Jim Gavin.

The race is now a head-to-head contest between independent TD (Teachta Dála, or member of the Dáil Éireann, similar to member of the U.S. House of Representatives) Catherine Connolly, 68, and former Fine Gael TD and government minister Heather Humphreys, 62. Connolly is on the political left, and supported by the Irish Labour (she is a former member) and Sinn Féin parties. Humphreys is a more center-right, establishment figure.

Gavin’s Oct. 5 departure announcement shocked the Irish electorate. In the few weeks since his nomination, the Irish Aviation Authority senior executive and former Dublin GAA football manager was revealed as an uneven and inexperienced campaigner. His credibility cratered over recent questions about owing back rent to a former tenant. That’s hardly a position of strength in a country with an ongoing housing crisis and a history of testy (sometimes violent) landlord-tenant relations.

Gavin was the personal selection of Irish Taoiseach (Prime Minister) Micheál Martin, who now will face questions about, and challenges to, his leadership of the Fianna Fáil party and the country.  Martin’s political chops are certainly much stronger than Gavin’s, so he might outlast this controversary, as he has others in the past.

Mary Robinson (1990-1997) and Mary McAleese (1997-2011; unopposed in 2004.) held the office of president for 21 years, followed by the two, seven-year terms of the departing Michael D. Higgins. The office is Ireland’s only national election except for occasional constitutional referendum questions.

Áras an Uachtaráin, the Irish President’s House in Dublin. It was formerly known as the Viceregal Lodge, the home of the British Lord Lieutenant of Ireland.

Irish Embassy USA changes location; loses charm, history

The Embassy of Ireland USA in Washington, D.C. has relocated from an historic early 20th century mansion to a recently renovated 1966 office building steps from the White House. The old location was the home of the Irish republic in the American capital for 75 years.

New home of the Embassy of Ireland USA.

“We begin to write the next chapter in the great story of Ireland-U.S. relations,” Tánaiste and Minister for Foreign Affairs Simon Harris said during the Sept. 25 ribbon cutting at the new  embassy offices at 1700 Pennsylvania Avenue NW.

Known as The Mills Building, the 11-story building was renovated in 2022. It is across the street from Lafayette Park and the two-block portion of Pennsylvania Avenue closed to vehicle traffic, between 17th and 15th streets.

Access to the White House is highly restricted to guided tour groups, though Irish dignitaries are welcomed to 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue every March. The grounds were officially closed by President Woodrow Wilson during the First World War. Fencing and other security measures began to appear during the 19th century.

The Munsey Building, shown in 1919, was demolished in 1980.

As many readers will know, the White House was designed by the Irish-born architect James Hoban. Fewer readers will know the first official offices of the Irish Free State in Washington were located in the Munsey Building, 1321 E. St. NW, between 13th and 14th streets, not too far from the new embassy. Timothy A. Smiddy represented the state until 1929. The Irish National Bureau produced the Friends of Irish Freedom’s weekly News Letter in the Munsey Building from 1919 to 1922. Éamon De Valera also kept an office there during his 1919-1920 tour of the United States.[1]See my November 2020 post, “Washington, D.C.’s Irish hot spots, 1919-1921“.

“This will be an excellent base from which to grow our vital political, economic and cultural ties with the US over the years ahead,” Harris said of the new Irish Embassy, according to an official statement. He emphasized that Ireland is the fifth largest source of foreign direct investment in the US, and that Irish companies have created more than 200,000 American jobs.

Leaving Embassy Row

The Irish Embassy was previously located at 2234 Massachusetts Avenue NW, on Sheridan Circle, part of the city’s historic “Embassy Row.” The semidetached limestone residence was designed by William Penn Cresson in the Louis XVI manner. Completed in 1909, it is known as the Henrietta M. Halliday House, after the widow of a wealthy businessman. It is unclear if she ever lived in the house, which was sold in 1911.[2]”Henrietta M. Halliday House (Irish Chancery)”, HABS No. DC-261, Historic American Buildings Survey, Office of Archeology and Historic Preservation, National Park Service, U.S. Department … Continue reading

The former Irish Embassy in October 1924, with Irish and EU flags at right, Ukrainian flag draped from balcony.

The Irish government purchased the property for $72,000 in August 1949. At the time, Ireland’s presence in Washington was still described as legation. Three months later Irish Minister to Washington Seán Nunan welcomed Irish Minister of Agriculture James Dillon, who was visiting the city for an international conference.[3]”Society News”, (Washington) Evening Star, Nov. 30, 1949. In March 1950, John Joseph Hearne became the first Irish ambassador to Washington.

The property is assessed at $6,548,040, according to DC tax records. It is being sold by the commercial real estate firm CBRE, which says it has not set an asking price. The adjoining 2232 Massachusetts Ave. is being co-marketed by residential real estate firm Compass for $2,995,000. See their Oct. 6 press release. (This paragraph was updated from the original post.)

In December 2023, the Irish government purchased the nine-bedroom mansion at 2221 30th Street NW as its official ambassadorial residence. The $12.25 million sale price shaved more than $4 million off the $16.5 million list price. The state began renting the 15,000 square-foot mansion as it sold its former ambassadorial residence at 2244 S Street NW, known as the Frederic Delano House, after an uncle of U.S. President Franklin Delano Roosevelt. That property sold for $8 million in March 2024.

Exempt & delinquent taxes

The new Irish ambassador’s residence had an outstanding District of Columbia tax bill of $33,502 as of Sept. 30. A notice of $153,910 in delinquent taxes and penalties was sent by the District to the Irish government in April. More than $30,000 in late fees and interest had been assessed since the property was purchase in December 2023. The most recent statement, dated Aug. 4, shows that no new assessments or penalties have been levied against the property, which suggests an exemption is now in place. The Irish Embassy could not be reached through its general telephone number.

Irish ambassador’s residence.

The former embassy property was exempt from taxes. More than 600 properties in the District owned by foreign governments accounted for $50.2 million in foregone tax revenue in 2019.[4]Lincoln Institute of Land Policy, May 2019, citing District of Columbia Office of the Chief Financial Officer 2018. The U.S. government owns some 2,800 properties exempt from District taxes, with an estimated market value of $52 billion, or $917.7 million in foregone property tax revenue annually. And then there are religious institutions, schools, and assorted non-profits, in addition to the District government’s own property, also exempt from taxes.

The Irish government’s tax-exempt status on other properties does not mean it automatically received a discount on a commercial lease, which I assume is the arrangement at The Mills Building. The U.S. State Department’s Office of Foreign Missions regulates such matters, which are more complicated than can be addressed here. Reciprocal treatment in the foreign country–in this case, the U.S. government in Ireland–is certainly a factor.

Personal note

On a personal note, I enjoyed visiting the former Irish Embassy on several occasions since I moved to Washington nearly 12 years ago. These opportunities came through my membership in Irish Network-DC, a professional and social group. The place certainly had the elegant feel of an earlier age, when the Society pages of DC dailies regularly reported the comings-and-goings of diplomats and other special guests. I visited the new ambassador’s residence once for an IN-DC event.

I live barely a five-minute walk from the now former embassy location. I enjoyed walking Irish visitors past the exterior, then continuing a few blocks further up Embassy Row to the small park centered by a statue of Robert Emmet.

At least Irish patriot remains in place.

References

References
↑1 See my November 2020 post, “Washington, D.C.’s Irish hot spots, 1919-1921“.
↑2 ”Henrietta M. Halliday House (Irish Chancery)”, HABS No. DC-261, Historic American Buildings Survey, Office of Archeology and Historic Preservation, National Park Service, U.S. Department of the Interior, 1978.
↑3 ”Society News”, (Washington) Evening Star, Nov. 30, 1949.
↑4 Lincoln Institute of Land Policy, May 2019, citing District of Columbia Office of the Chief Financial Officer 2018.

Irish presidential race set for Oct. 24 election

Candidate qualification has closed and the sprint to Ireland’s October 24 presidential election has begun. The field of three contenders includes:

  • Heather Humphreys, a former Fine Gael minister;
  • Jim Gavin, senior executive of Irish Aviation Authority and a former Dublin GAA football manager, was put forward by Fianna Fáil; and
  • Independent TD Catherine Connolly, backed by the Labour party she once belong to.

The winner will succeed poet and historian Michael D. Higgins, 84. He is prohibited from reelection after serving two seven-year terms. Higgins earlier this month suggested that Israel and countries that supply it with weapons (USA) should be prohibited from the United Nations.

Edward S. Walsh, left, assumed the office of U.S. Ambassador to Ireland in July after presenting his credentials to President of Ireland Michael D Higgins .

This is Ireland’s only election for national office, though voters do decide national referendum questions. The taoiseach, or prime minister, is nominated by members of Dáil Éireann, who are elected from constituencies across the 26 counties. The Irish president officially appointments the taoiseach, currently Micheál Martin of Fianna Fáil.

The president’s duties also include the appointment of judges and other officials; summoning and dissolving the Dáil, and signing legislation into law and/or referring Bills to the Supreme Court for review.

Perhaps most importantly, the president serves as the people’s representative and spokesperson, a super ambassador to the world. “If the Republic still has a soul, it hovers somewhere around the president,” Irish Times columnist Fintan O’Toole wrote. That’s why Higgins’s comments about the Israel/Palestine conflict have been so important, along with his leadership through Ireland’s the “Decade of Centenaries.”

It’s a shame O’Toole had to qualify “if” Ireland still has a soul, but that’s another matter. I’ll follow the campaign in future posts over the coming month.

New murals at St. Pat’s, NYC, depict USA immigrants, Knock

New murals depicting the 19th century arrival of Irish and other immigrants to America will be dedicated Sunday, Sept. 21, at St. Patrick’s Cathedral in New York City. The 12-panel installation by the Brooklyn-based artist Adam Cvijanovi also includes a representation of the 1879 Marian apparition at Knock, County Mayo.

“It’s a celebration of a city that has been built by immigrants and where immigrants have been welcomed,” Cardinal Timothy M. Dolan, retiring archbishop of New York, told the New York Times. He led a 2015 pilgrimage to Knock, and in 2017 presided over the reburial of one of the 15 witnesses, an Irish immigrant laborer in New York.

I’ve requested authorized images of the murals from the Cathedral and will update the post if they are provided. Meanwhile, to honor the new artwork and mark “Half-Way to St. Patrick’s Day,” I reprise these earlier posts:

What you need to know about Knock’s vision visitors, 2017

My pilgrimages to St. Patrick’s churches, 2022

The new murals are the first major art commission in the cathedral since bronze doors were installed at the Fifth Avenue entrance in 1949. Shamrock detail from the doors.

The twin spires at night, October 2018.

Detailing the US deaths of Donegal’s ‘Tunnel Tigers’

In April I visited the Donegal Tunnel Tigers Memorial on the grounds of St. Crona’s Church in Dungloe, County Donegal. The statue and information panels honor nearly six dozen emigrants from the county who died in overseas in tunnel and mine accidents. The list includes seven men who were killed in the United States, a small subset of the Irishmen who died below the American landscape in the 19th and 20th centuries.

A few details about these seven workers from US newspapers and other sources are found below the monument photo. They are listed in chronological order with each man’s age and place of birth and death.

The monument was dedicated in 2019.

James O’Donnell, 29, B: Crolly, D: Butte, Montana

Killed with eight other miners on November 3, 1891. The cage in the Anaconda mine shaft was overloaded with 18 to 20 men.[1]“Hurled To Eternity”, Butte (Mont.) Daily Post, November 4, 1891.

Hugh Carney, 42, Glebe, B: Mountcharles, D: Butte

Was dislodged from the cage being lowered into the shaft at the Diamond mine on January 6, 1909. Seven other miners were in the cage when the door, said to be bolted, was torn off. Another man sustained right hand and arm injuries. The accident occurred about the 400 level of the 1,600-foot shaft.[2]“Falling Of Gate Remains Mystery”, The Anaconda (Mont.) Standard, January 9, 1909.

Philip Boyle, 34, B: Calhame, Annagry, D: Butte

Lost his footing on a wall plate  of the Modoc mine shaft and plunged 50 feet to the sump on December 22, 1912. He had arrived from Ireland in October and only begun to work at the silver and copper mine a week earlier. He left a wife and newborn son that he had not yet seen in Donegal. “A cablegram conveying the sad news to the young mother was sent last night, bringing sorrow at the happy Christmastide.”[3]“Killed Before He Could See Newborn Babe”, The Butte (Mont.) Miner, December 23, 1912, and “Misses His Footing, Plunges To Death”  The Anaconda (Mont.) Standard, December 23, 1912.

  • Neil Doherty, 26, B: Mullaghderg, D: Butte 

Shortly before midnight June 8, 1917, fire broke out more than 2,000 feet below ground in the North Butte Mining Company’s Granite Mountain/Speculator shaft. A total of 164 (some accounts say 168) miners died as flames, smoke, and poisonous gas spread through the labyrinth of underground tunnels.[4]Michael Punke, Fire and Brimstone: The North Butte Mining Disaster of 1917, [New York: Grand Central Publishing (Hachette Book Group), 2007] Contemporary newspaper accounts list Doherty’s age as 46.

  • John J. McGuinness, 39, B: Molville, D: Butte

Also died in the June 1917 Speculator fire. In 2000, Stewart Norris of Molville visited Butte and located the weather-beaten wooden marker over the McGuinness grave at the Holy Cross Cemetery. Norris made arrangements for a stone marker, according to a newspaper report. The contemporary story says McGuinness was 49.[5]“Irish visitor finds grave of friend’s grandfather, who died in Speculator fire” The Montana Standard (Butte), November 12, 2000.

Up to one quarter of Butte’s residents were from Ireland at the turn of the 20th century. They came from Mayo, Cork, and Kerry in addition to Donegal. Irish leader Eamon de Valera visited the town in 1919.

Neil Doherty and John J. McGuinness were listed among the “Identified Mine Dead.”

Cornelius Boyle, 28, B: Dungloe, D: New York City

On Friday, April 13, 1928, he was struck by a dislodged boulder while working on a subway tunnel under the East River between 53rd Street, Manhattan, and Long Island City, Queens.[6]“Bayonne Man Crushed To Death” Bayonne (NJ) Evening News, April 14, 1928.

Niece McCole, 32, B: Keadue, Burtonport, D: New York

The memorial panel says he was killed in 1932 in New York, though it is unclear if this was the city or state. I could not find coverage of this fatality in US and Irish newspaper databases. A coal miner named Niece McCole is mentioned in a 1906 story about Pennsylvania mine owners blocking unionized labor from their properties.[7]“Whistles Will Blow But No Union Men Will Respond To The Summons”, Buffalo (NY) Courier, April 2, 1906.

References

References
↑1 “Hurled To Eternity”, Butte (Mont.) Daily Post, November 4, 1891.
↑2 “Falling Of Gate Remains Mystery”, The Anaconda (Mont.) Standard, January 9, 1909.
↑3 “Killed Before He Could See Newborn Babe”, The Butte (Mont.) Miner, December 23, 1912, and “Misses His Footing, Plunges To Death”  The Anaconda (Mont.) Standard, December 23, 1912.
↑4 Michael Punke, Fire and Brimstone: The North Butte Mining Disaster of 1917, [New York: Grand Central Publishing (Hachette Book Group), 2007]
↑5 “Irish visitor finds grave of friend’s grandfather, who died in Speculator fire” The Montana Standard (Butte), November 12, 2000.
↑6 “Bayonne Man Crushed To Death” Bayonne (NJ) Evening News, April 14, 1928.
↑7 “Whistles Will Blow But No Union Men Will Respond To The Summons”, Buffalo (NY) Courier, April 2, 1906.

The ‘Irish Literary Supplement’ says slán

This summer, Robert G. Lowery published the final issue of the Irish Literary Supplement, a biannual journal that provided readers approximately 2,000 reviews since 1982.

“I’m grateful to all those reviewers and editors who were with me from the start, and those who joined the journey at stops along the way,” the editor and publisher wrote on the American Conference of Irish Studies (ACIS) Facebook page.

Lowery’s message generated more than three dozen supportive comments and nearly 100 positive emoji reactions as of the date this story was published.

“You have rendered the world of Irish Studies, indeed anyone interested in this country, its diaspora and its rich cultural history, a dedicated and generous service,” wrote Piaras Mac Éinrí, lecturer in Migration Studies and Geography at University College Cork.

Lowery, 84, has been a member of ACIS since 1975. He is the author of six books on Irish dramatist Sean O’Casey (1880-1964). In the 1970s, Lowery was founder and editor of the journal The Sean O’Casey Review. Simultaneously, he was editor of the ACIS Newsletter for 10 years and the Irish Arts Center (New York City) magazine Ais-Eiri for five years. He organized numerous conferences and centenary celebrations about Casey, and in 1986 delivered his extensive archive of O’Casey memorabilia to the Boston College Library.

The final issue of the ILS.

For most of its run the ILS was a cooperative venture between Lowery, ACIS, which provided mailing labels of its membership, and the Irish Studies program at Boston College, which provided sponsorship. Circulation fluctuated depending on ACIS membership, while at peak about 400 libraries subscribed to the journal.

“Before ILS, which most people can’t remember, there were very few outlets for book reviews on Irish subjects,” Lowery wrote in reply to my outreach. “The Times Literary Supplement would have one issue per year where Irish books filled the pages. And of course, the Irish newspapers carried book reviews, but this was before the internet and the only way to get Irish papers was at a few newsstands in New York City, Boston, and maybe Washington, D.C.

Before the internet … Today book publishers routinely bypass independent reviewers to promote their titles through web pages, email lists, and social media feeds. It seems to me that ILS readers and the Irish Studies scholars who wrote the reviews are shortchanged by these newer marketing strategies.

“Bob listened to many of us try out our work, which meant that he also had a sense of who might be able to review works that crossed his desk,” Timothy G. McMahon, Ph.D., associate professor of Modern Irish and British Empire History at Marquette University, Milwaukee, and a past ACIS president, wrote in an email. “A lot of us, therefore, got experience reviewing in the pages of the ILS, including learning how to deal with a tough-minded editor who cast a critical eye over the text.”

The final issue of ILS featured 21 reviews of books from 13 U.S., U.K., and Irish publishers, with a display advertisement from Wake Forest University Press, a supporter of the journal for decades. “I think it’s a strong ending,” Lowery wrote.

So what’s next?

Is there a future for the ILS?

Lowery, who owns the title through a Long Island, N.Y., entity called Irish Studies, said he hopes “an enterprising scholar” will pick up where has left off.

“The key to keeping such a publication going is to get the endorsement of ACIS,” he continued. “If you’re going digital, you can simply post the paper on the ACIS Facebook site; but I don’t know how you will fund it. It is too expensive to print, and print is somewhat passe anyway. When I started in 1982, first class postage for a 20-page paper to Ireland and England was 60 cents. Today, it’s $6.00. There is no 2nd or 3rd class postage.”

The endeavor also requires “a good strong Irish editor,” Lowery added. “I was lucky to have them.”

I reached out to ACIS and Boston College. I welcome members of the Irish Studies community to provide their thoughts about continuing the ILS in some format.